Milan joined in with the call for unity this season; from Missoni’s pink pussy hats marching down the catwalk, to Dolce & Gabbana’s multi-generational parade, and Gucci’s eclectic styling and celebration of 119 individuals made for a perfectly felt nod to the current state of the world, something which Milan fashion week is rather exclusive of.
Knights of the Runway
What better valiant material to use than chain mail for a protest collection; such things which have only ever been used in armour, this time with a glittering twist from Gucci with silver mesh bodysuits, draped and embellished at Versace with added crystals while Dolce & Gabbana took on light-weight and floaty feminine long mesh gowns.
The colour of anger, passion and love; shades of red dominated the Italian catwalks, most notably in a series of coats. Max Mara’s giant teddy gaped open and looked all the sexier for it; perversely at Fendi a waist cinch lent a seductive allure to its hot red version. Meanwhile Armani looked equally dashing on the catwalk in the form of a double-breasted overcoat.
Volume is still persevering on the streets, but on the catwalks the suiting silhouette for autumn is getting slimmer. Missoni’s suits were the warmest, their rainbow-hued wools reinvigorating the tailoring template, while Versace’s had more of an edge, worn low on the hips to show a flash of skin. At Dolce & Gabbana, signature brocades came with statement floral lapels and crisp white shirts.
Are hats the new slogan must-have? Missoni seemed certain on that point: models in its finale wore the pink pussy hats that proved a visual signifier at the Women’s March in January, woven with the distinctive Missoni zigzag. Donatella Versace, too, utilised headgear as she sought to promote a message of unity, printing Courage, Love and Loyalty across the front of beanie hats secured on fluoro-coloured punkish locks.