American-Irish designer, Paul Costelloe is in my own humble opinion – severely underrated. Not only does the name encompass a family-run design business, with collections that include womenswear, menswear, bags and accessories, homeware, jewellery, eyewear and children’s occasionwear, Costelloe is also a bright leader in the use of hand-crafted, luxurious fabrics combined with cutting edge design, innovation and creativity.
What I like most about his shows is the sense of occasion; from the usually gilded venue to the individual looks of every model – Costelloe turns his ideals for next season into a beautiful spectacle, and the Autumn/Winter ’17 collection did not disappoint. Set in the ballroom of the Waldorf Hilton, models flounced around in Irish tweeds, fine wools and silk jacquards. Sleeves are exaggerated with a nod to the Tudor period, while femininity is celebrated through corseted waists and full skirts.
Plunging necklines and bold slit skirts added a modern update to the otherwise prudish look, and traditional fabrics collaborated nicely with latex and leather. Sheer fabrics, cut-outs and a metallic colour palette also added an element of fun. “Creativity, texture and traditional designs are what I want my brand to always be,” Costelloe says.
Take a look at backstage shots by Alexander Chai below…