Behind the curtain at Paul Costelloe

American-Irish designer, Paul Costelloe is in my own humble opinion – severely underrated. Not only does the name encompass a family-run design business, with collections that include womenswear, menswear, bags and accessories, homeware, jewellery, eyewear and children’s occasionwear, Costelloe is also a bright leader in the use of hand-crafted, luxurious fabrics combined with cutting edge design, innovation and creativity.

What I like most about his shows is the sense of occasion; from the usually gilded venue to the individual looks of every model – Costelloe turns his ideals for next season into a beautiful spectacle, and the Autumn/Winter ’17 collection did not disappoint. Set in the ballroom of the Waldorf Hilton, models flounced around in Irish tweeds, fine wools and silk jacquards. Sleeves are exaggerated with a nod to the Tudor period, while femininity is celebrated through corseted waists and full skirts.

Plunging necklines and bold slit skirts added a modern update to the otherwise prudish look, and traditional fabrics collaborated nicely with latex and leather. Sheer fabrics, cut-outs and a metallic colour palette also added an element of fun. “Creativity, texture and traditional designs are what I want my brand to always be,” Costelloe says.

Take a look at backstage shots by Alexander Chai below…

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Current Research

Feminist dress history
Fashion image-making and visual culture
Material culture and adornment
The commodification of activism
Corsetry and the politics of the body
Contemporary luxury fashion narratives
Digital feminism and protest dress
Fashion as cultural text and identity construction

Selected Publications

Design History Society

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