From the unsure shores of post-brexit Britain to the ruffled feathers (and tulle) of a heated political debate across the pond, next season’s collections offered a provocative reply to what is going on in today’s cultural climate.
Riding on the hemtails of underwear as outerwear, the bra takes centre stage in this seasons provocative collections; Miucca Prada took on a fun and plenty of frills take with her beachy collection at Miu Miu, in the form of ruched Fifties bikini tops worn over utilitarian dresses. Alexander Wang flirted with wraparound bralettes while Victoria Beckham’s crushed satin mini bustiers looked chic paired with a matching suit trouser.
But not as you know it. This seasons rosey-hue takes on a brighter, fuchsia tone; an in-your-face, almost punk saccharine if you will. “Colour is always important for me – used almost like a pigment,” says the Hermes designer,Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski. “I would love to think about the purest form of colours. You really think about which fabric or material you are going to use, sometimes it’s very instinctive.” An exciting move forward from Hermes with their new out and loud attitude to the pink shade. Meanwhile Valentino’s fuchsia cape/dress hybrid won the audience over and Balenciaga took to using spandex in bold colours.
Tulle ruled the catwalks for this season, from Dior’s feminist yet feminine show, a debut from Maria Grazia Chiuri; long tulle skirts were paired with statement tee’s, proving that once more, girls rule the world. Molly Goddard’s love for tulle knows no bounds, and for spring/summer she made it fit for raving in, creating a swathe of neon tulle in crinoline skirts paired with graphic tees, whilst Alessandro Dell’Aqcua ran with it assiduously at Rochas, too. Veiled over Devoré velvet patterned dresses in a dual-colour layered effect, the result was a pretty one.
Here, there, everywhere. Holding onto the very romanticised looks of the season, ruffles were seen all over the major cities; in London, Sarah Burton sent down black leather ruffles for Alexander McQueen, embroidered and printed. In Paris, Jacquemes placed ruffles in southern France, where Victoriana undertones matched the white ruffle overdose, and in New York, both Dries Van Noten and Philip Lim 3.1 were floral, flowing and flirtatious.