Upon reflection of Dior Homme’s Autumn/Winter ’16 collection, I have experienced a sense of nostalgia for my teenage days of trying to dress alternatively as an ’emo punk’ (we’ve all been there). This season saw those misguided attempts at stuffing safety-pins through the ears and elevated the look for a more sophisticated and grown-up aesthetic.
‘The collection is about taking elements of the past, but bringing them into the present and reflecting on where we are now, in the situation of today,’ said Kris Van Assche, ‘It’s a moment in time for a contemporary generation.’
The catwalk lit up with red neon covered skate ramps, the kind you used to sit on aged 16 contemplating the meaning of life while listening to soft cell, which incidentally was part of the show’s soundtrack. Models in a streamlined silhouette walked with purpose (teenage angst, perhaps?), in cigarette trousers and tailored blazers which featured crude check stitching against a black palette. Bondage ties are back with a vengeance on the arms of outerwear and suit trousers while purposefully re-stiched suit trousers added more vexation to the collection.
More checks were seen throughout the collection in red or monochrome tartan outerwear, fairisle and intarsia knitwear were paired with the baggy trousers of early-noughties past, which when taken out their denim context and into a suiting fabric, gave a solid reinterpretation for the luxury consumers of today. Accessories took on a 90’s skater vibe with fingerless gloves and peak caps, covering almost every part of the body – even the shirt cuffs came down over the hands with space for idle thumbs to poke through.
It’s not just a phase mum, this is the real Kriss Van Assche.