Rugged, couture clothing for the travelling man; The Rake presents its initial impressions from the Berluti catwalk show at Paris Fashion Week…
Through the black sands of the Berluti catwalk, held at the grand Palais du Louvre during Paris Fashion Week yesterday, the Musee de Arts Decoratif was miraculously transformed and transported to the desert landscape of Marfa, Texas. If Mad Max did luxury, this would be it.
The lights dimmed as an introductory line of four models took to the stage, shrouded in darkness except for a few hints of geometric motif tattoos visible across the face and body. Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori has a penchant for the discipline of the great tattoo artists and this season saw the evolved works of Scott Campbell (who took his place as the ringleader) for this motorcycle gang inspired aesthetic.
Known for the strong graphic lines of his tattoo art, Campbell’s designs have been etched and sewn onto the leather surfaces of autumn/winter ’16 Berluti bags and shoes. The same motifs have also been cleverly included through the use of embroidery, laser prints and jacquard.
‘When it came to creating a modern, colourful and youthful new collection for Berluti for the winter season, I could imagine no better collaborator than Scott Campbell. His evocative designs hark back to the ancient heritage of early civilisation while looking futuristic in their clean lines.’
– Alessandro Sartori, Artistic Director, Berluti.
Black dominated the catwalk at first, with leather jackets, shearling and rugged double-breasted pea coats, all of which were boxy in shape and cut with a contemporary natural shoulder, taking centre stage. These were coupled with carrot-fit trousers, creating a balanced silhouette.
These were quickly followed by a wealth of bright jewel-inspired tones, with a warmth of colour to counter the colder seasons. A palette of fuchsia, burnt orange, shades of violet and cobalt created a story through which the Berluti bad-boys were at last seen riding off into the sunset.