Bejewelled Imperialism | Balmain PFW

Olivier Rousteing’s penchant for theatricality did not go amiss this Paris Fashion Week, where menswear reigned supreme in jewel encrusted military overcoats and tailcoats. Thus creating a new generation of pop culture defined army from Balmain, with added glittering elements from the archives. Lest we forget, this was once Michael Jackson’s choice of designer, pre-Rousteing.

The bejewelled garments themselves were in fact, a celebration of Paris; the city of lights. Given the incredibly grotesque and sad attacks last year, Rousteing aimed to give a sense of uncompromising optimism through extravagance; embroidered medals, equestrian boots and a jacket belted with a quilted cummerbund were worn with conviction while an orchestra (complete with harp) played a rendition of Kanye West’s ‘All of The Lights’.

‘A singular eagerness to embrace a diversity of creations, cultures and ideas has, of course, continued over generations and centuries, lasting up to our present day – a fact that enrages intolerant minds both here and abroad.’
– Olivier Rousteing

Balmain’s army continues to be the most sought after in-crowd, with noted Instagram models such as Jon Kortajarena and Sean O’Pry storming the catwalk, followed by their female counterparts – Sasha Luss, Alessandra Ambrosio and Lily Donaldson all draped in tiny crystals and silk tassels in jewel tones.

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Current Research

Feminist dress history
Fashion image-making and visual culture
Material culture and adornment
The commodification of activism
Corsetry and the politics of the body
Contemporary luxury fashion narratives
Digital feminism and protest dress
Fashion as cultural text and identity construction

Selected Publications

Design History Society

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